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He wanted to get better, and there was no one in Madison to teach him. A month later, she got the call. He demonstrated several of the drinks he was trying to rescue from obscurity, like the Blood and Sand, an inexplicably harmonious combination of Scotch, orange juice, vermouth and a rich liqueur called Cherry Heering. His mentor is Audrey Saunders. In the months leading up to the opening of Pegu Club, Meehan met often with Saunders and the other starting-lineup bartenders.
We both worked only on Monday nights—by then, he was also all but managing the bar at Gramercy Tavern—and I was the beneficiary of his growing reputation. Outside the bar, his sartorial choices are conservative by any measure—he tends towards performance fleeces and running shoes, instead of the two-tone wing-tips and pocket watches favored by some new-school mixologists, and he seems almost averse to the spotlight and the quick money that often comes with it. On this subject, Meehan is unequivocal: Until now, bartenders have been spared this vetting of their bloodlines, measured by other criteria—how well they could pour a Guinness, or how fast they could come up with an appropriate dirty joke. There DeGroff continued to teach Saunders the best practices he had developed at the Rainbow Room, practices that are now standard at first-class cocktail bars all over the country, including the use of fresh citrus and simple syrup in place of commercial sour mix; big ice cubes instead of standard ice chips; small cocktail glasses instead of the huge v-shaped martini glasses. When I started tending bar at Pegu in early , Meehan was the last member of the original staff still working there. From a quiet corner, Audrey Saunders watched him work as he chatted with a crowd of well-wishers, friends and bartenders that he trained at PDT. The rest of the shifts were filled by two passionate amateurs with day jobs; a hotheaded but lovable barback from Pegu; and a bartender from Red Rocks West who had more experience lighting bars on fire with grain alcohol than stirring martinis. Early on a Sunday evening in October, two men are working behind the bar at PDT , and one of them seems a little lost. The world had changed since Saunders had gotten her start. Often, their research and development was fueled by antique cocktail books Saunders kept behind the bar just as DeGroff had at Blackbird. Through exhaustive, repetitious Emburian experimentation, Meehan determined the correct amount of Pernod was less than a barspoonful—so he loaded tiny spray bottles with the spirit, and spritzed each glass before pouring the other chilled ingredients in. At first sip, she knew she had found her mentor. He hesitated, but the prospect of creating a bar from the bottom up was just too alluring. His mentor is Audrey Saunders. This was the big break he had been hoping for since he moved to the city—akin to a small-town song-and-dance man landing a starring role on Broadway. He demonstrated several of the drinks he was trying to rescue from obscurity, like the Blood and Sand, an inexplicably harmonious combination of Scotch, orange juice, vermouth and a rich liqueur called Cherry Heering. These books not only emphasized the use of fresh ingredients and proper technique; more importantly, they treated mixology as a noble pursuit, worthy of intellectual and professional devotion. The meetings were filled with anticipation, excitement, a sense of common purpose; the cocktail-fueled conversations stretched on for hours. In the months leading up to the opening of Pegu Club, Meehan met often with Saunders and the other starting-lineup bartenders. When writer Anthony Giglio was asked to overhaul the famous Mr. Eventually I just went up to her and asked if I could make her a few cocktails, just to see what she thought. In addition to his work on Mr. Meehan quickly pulled together a staff that, at least on paper, was very different from the team that opened Pegu. A month later, she got the call. He wanted to get better, and there was no one in Madison to teach him. Jim Meehan would be on the opening staff at Pegu.
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