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Carousers returning from the clubs and bars of the Reeperbahn stop by the market to end their night with a final pint by the harbour as shoppers are just starting their day. This is apparent in the storied history of the Rote Flora. Have you visited Hamburg and St. I stuffed myself with a tray of battered scampi before coyly returning for a huge slice of bread-crumbed cod in a bap. I found the place in total darkness with the only indication of its illustrious history a small plaque by the front door. Rather than traders and fish stalls, the hall is lined with bars doling out beer to the gathered congregation. Well dressed theatre-goers weave between the cosmopolitan crowds visiting the cafes and vibrant restaurants that sit side by side with the dive bars and strip clubs.
The split in St Pauli is not only ideological but in some places, physical. The penthouses here are inexplicably becoming some of the most expensive real estate in the borough, despite the noise from the clubs below. I found myself back among the party-goers the next morning in the most unexpected of places; the Fish Market. Let me know in the comments below. People are slowly becoming priced out of the area. Only the banners draped across its facade betray its recent use. Unfortunately this is an identity that is gradually being eroded despite attempts to fight the creeping gentrification. People shopping for fruit and fish at the market, having an al fresco coffee or attending the theatre while gluttonous hedonism plays out all around them. Pauli, Hamburg July 24, Neon silhouettes of women in suggestive poses bathed the street in a purple glow. Get wanderlust in your inbox Signup now and receive my newsletter filled with travel tips and stories from around the globe I agree to have my personal information transfered to MailChimp more information I will never give away, trade or sell your email address. Among the sex tourists, party goers and stag dos this is a working, living neighbourhood. You can unsubscribe at any time. Our tour group watched on as pairs of sniggering men — and it is always men, as women are famously prohibited from entering — squeeze through the chicaning stiles only to emerge a few minutes later, red faced and giggling harder. In plans were made to refurbish the building, much to the chagrin of local residents. Pauli and Altona were eventually absorbed into the sprawling expansion of Hamburg. Anchors and seafaring motifs are everywhere; this is a city that wears its history on its sleeve. They laugh at his animated delivery and hang on to his every word as he wraps a greasy eel in paper and jokingly hands it to a passing child. A band of middle aged men were living out their dad rock dreams on stage, the singer doing his best Bon Scott impression to a crowd that were both far too enthusiastic and far too drunk for 7am. Like most outward looking ports, Hamburg has welcomed immigrants and sailors for hundreds of years, seeing itself as a gateway to the world rather than a city tied to the dealings of distant Berlin. A burgeoning foodie scene sees residents and tourists mixing in the Reeperbahns pedestrianised central reservation over plates of steaming street food. Thousands of people were gathered, armed with placards, to voice their disapproval. The rich people can sit safely inside and enjoy their meal while they watch all of this out here. Pauli seems to have its own character, but then again, Hamburg in itself seems unique when compared to the rest of Germany. In an attempt to escape the morning chill I followed the rabble into the year old market hall, a wonderfully preserved and refurbished brick gem embellished with decorative wrought iron staircases and balconies. With my short stay in the city I got the impression that Hamburgers are fiercely proud of both their city and their identity. Music pumped from the cheap bars that are popping up to attract teenage clubbers.
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